LAKE GARDA - WHAT TO SEE

Southern Shore

Sirmione
Lake Garda`s most famous resort, has an enticing setting on a narrow peninsula that juts 2.5 miles into the lake. The old town is heralded by the photogenic Rocca Scaligera (Scaligera Castle), accessed via a drawbridge over the fish-filled moat. The castle was built in 1259 by Mastino I della Scala, the fishtail battlements being the trademark of the della Scala family. The narrow alleys around the castle teem with tourists throughout the season

Beyond the castle are pleasant lakeside terraces, beaches and a headland of olive trees and cypresses. At the tip of the peninsula lies the famous Grotte de Catullo, the ruins of a vast Roman villa. The site was named after the Roman poet Catullus, but although his poems make reference to a home in Sirmione there is no evidence this was his villa. The archaeological remains, some of the most important of their kind in Italy, cover over 5 acres of the promontory, and are set high above the lake amid olive and cypress trees. Deciphering the various rooms on the various levels is not easy, but it is lovely just to wander around.

Sirmione is just minutes away from the Milan–Venice motorway and a mecca for day-trippers.

Desenzano del Garda
West of Sirmione, Desenzano del Garda is the largest town on the lake, and one of the most colorful and lively. An important Roman port, it retains a 3rd-century Villa Romana with remarkable floor mosaics depicting scenes of hunting and local life. The heart of the town is the picturesque Porto Vecchio (Old Port) flanked by cafés and the venue of a large and popular Tuesday market. Behind the port, narrow lanes lead up to the medieval castle, while along the front, the promenade is pleasant for strolling.

Western Shore

Salò
North of Desenzano, on a beautiful deep bay, and backed by the Monte San Bartolomeo, Salò is an appealing combination of bustling local town and elegant resort. The narrow streets and squares of the historic quarter lie behind a long lakeside promenade. The late-Gothic Duomo along the waterfront, spied from afar by its distinctive bell tower, has an unfinished brick facade, with a Renaissance portal. The piazza here is the setting for summer performances of the Gasparo da Salò Festival of Music, celebrating the inventor of the violin, born here in 1540.
The town of Salò has a long history dating back to Roman times. More recently it was the seat of Mussolini`s puppet republic in 1943 (his last desperate attempt to reorganize Fascism in Italy). The Art Nouveau-style Villa Simonini (now the Hotel Laurin) was the headquarters of the Italian Foreign Ministry, presided over by Il Duce.

Isola del Garda
Off the headland south of Salò lies the little, cypress-studded island of Isola del Garda. In private hands for several centuries, the island was inherited by Camillo Cavazza and the current residents are his English wife and her seven children. From May to October boats leave from Salò once a week, from Gardone Riviera twice weekly; the island can also be visited from other resorts in the lower lakes. Two-hour guided tours (occasionally given by one of the family) include the neo-Gothic villa and fine gardens, with tastings of local products such as wine and olive oil.

Gardone Riviera
Just along the coast, Gardone Riviera maintains much of the elegance that drew royalty and wealthy international visitors in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. The Austrian Emperor and other European elite built palatial villas here and Gardone became the most fashionable resort on the lake. Among the eminent guests at the belle-époque Grand Hotel, which still stands on the waterfront, were Somerset Maugham, Nabokov and Churchill.

Further along, at the Villa Fiordaliso, Mussolini stayed with his mistress Clara Petacci during the Salò Republic. This lovely Art Nouveau lakeside villa is now a hotel and restaurant where you can enjoy fine cuisine on the lake.

But the biggest draw of Gardone, particularly for Italian day-trippers, is Il Vittoriale. This eccentric residence, set in 22 acres of gardens with lake views, was home to the flamboyant poet, dramatist, soldier and socialite, Gabriele d`Annunzio (1863–1938). The memorabilia from wartime, literary, artistic and womanizing pursuits, not to mention the vast wedding cake mausoleum, are all a celebration of the man himself. Among the eccentricities are the coffin in the spare bedroom, the dark or painted windows (D`Annunzio hated daylight), an embalmed tortoise which died of overeating and the prow of the battleship, Puglia, wedged into the hillside.

In the early 20th century Arturo Hruska, a botanist and dentist to the last Tsar of Russia, transformed the sloping site above the town into an oasis of flora. The Heller Garden contains flourishing Alpine, subtropical and Mediterranean species. It`s a wonderfully peaceful spot where you can wander among pretty rockeries, lush lawns, Japanese-style gardens, streams and waterfalls.

Gargnano
Going north, Gargnano is one of the main sailing centers on the lake and it is hard to find a more pleasant lakeside place to stay. Remarkably unspoiled, it has a lively little port, a promenade of orange trees, a couple of very enticing hotels and a gourmet restaurant serving some of the best cuisine on the lake.

Limone Sul Garda
The picturesque little town is bypassed by the main coast road, but heaves with tourists all through the season. The rows of white stone pillars of the now-defunct lemon terraces or limonaie are testimony to the citrus-fruit industry which made Limone rich. The trade declined in the 20th century with competition from cheaper citrus fruits grown in the hotter climate of the south. Fruit trees still flourish and market stalls brim with bottles of lemon liqueur, lemon-shaped ceramics and the freshly picked fruits. You might assume the village is named after the citrus fruit but it is more likely that it derives from the Latin limen or border, referring to the former frontier here between Austria and Italy.

Garda Trentino
The northern tip of the lake lies in Trentino, which was under Austrian rule from 1815-1918. Set against the dramatic backdrop of Monte Brione, the main resort of Riva del Garda has been luring visitors from the north since the 19th century. Today it is a thriving holiday resort, attracting a large number of German and British tourists, but managing to retain much of its former character and elegance.

Strategically located between Verona and the Alps, the town was a major trading port, coveted by rival factions and variously acquired by the Veronese Scaligeri (1349), the Viscontis of Milan (1380) and the Venetian Republic (1440). The moated La Rocca, dominating the waterfront and accessed over a drawbridge, is testimony to the Scaligera era. Since it was built in 1124 the castle has been remodeled several times, and under the Austrians the tower was truncated and the castle became a garrison. Today it is home to the Museo Civico, with displays of art and archaeology and occasional temporary exhibitions. Overlooking the harbor, Piazza III Novembre is the appealing main square, flanked by medieval Renaissance palazzi and the lofty Torre Apponale. The tower has variously served as a prison, a store for salt and grain, and as a look-out point during World War I.

Cafés and pizzerias along the waterfront make the most of the views, and there are parks, gardens and pebbly beaches. The waters are dotted with windsurfers and dinghies all year round – you can rent equipment and have lessons, or just take a leisurely stroll along the waterfront to admire the views. You can walk all the way to Torbole (2.5 miles), described by Goethe as `a wonder of nature, an enchanting sight`. Its setting below sheer rocks and beside the River Sarca is as alluring as ever, but the village is spoilt by the main road cutting off the center from the lake, and unless you`re into rock climbing, windsurfing or sailing there is little to detain you.

Malcesine
Has a historic center with tiny streets, a small harbor, and a medieval castle. From Malcesine, the cable car goes to Monte Baldo, known as the Garden of Europe, where there are botanical gardens, hiking paths, and specatucular views.

Bardolino
Has thermal baths and a wellness and beauty center at the Hotel Caesius Thermæ & Spa Resort.

Peschiera del Garda
One of the most picturesque towns on the southern shore of the lake. Its small historic center is inside 16th century walls. Peschiera is served by train, bus, and ferry so makes a good base. It`s also near a golf course and Gardaland.

Gardaland
The largest amusement park in Italy. It`s in Castelnuovo del Garda near Pescheria. There`s a free shuttle bus from the Pescheria train station. The Gardaland bus runs from many of the towns around Lake Garda.