THE ALPUJARRAS

The Alpujarra is famous throughout Spain because of its unique mini-ecology. Its terraced farmlands are constantly watered by the melting snow from above, constituting a high-altitude oasis of greenery which stands in dramatic contrast to the arid foothills below. This is ideal hiking terrain for adventurous travelers, provided you take along a tent and well-padded sleeping bags since the average altitude is 4,000 feet above sea level.

The cultural interest of the region lies in its fifty-odd villages, which were the last stronghold of the Moors. Soon after the Castilians took Granada in 1492, all the city's Moors were forced to convert to Christianity. Those who refused took to the hills, settling in this remote, inaccessible area. These unique hamlets have retained their traditional Berber architecture with terraced clusters of grey-white, box-shaped houses with flat clay roofs, which is still common in the Rif and Atlas mountains of Morocco. Perhaps the most picturesque villages are the famous trio which cling, one close above the other, to the slopes of the Poqueira Valley, where red peppers and tomatoes are still set out to dry on the flat clay roofs, among the tall round chimney pots.

If you stray from the beaten path, you will be sure to catch sight of the region's abundant wild life, such as the Cabra Hispanica, a mountain goat which roams the mountains in herds and is often seen standing on pinnacles, silhouetted against the sky. But as soon as it flairs the scent of man it will bound up the steepest slopes with amazing speed. The Alpujarra is also famous for its excellent birdwatching - the colorful Hoopoe with its stark, haunting cry, is a common sight.

Bubion

Bubion is one of the high villages of Las Alpujarras, situated on the southern slopes of the Sierra Nevada, Spain's highest mountain range. Sitting proudly in the midst of the incredibly beautiful Poqueira Ravine, it is the middle one of the three traditional Moorish villages located here (Capileira and Pampaneira are the others). At an altitude of 4,430 feet, it is a wonderfully dramatic position. The views in every direction are quite exceptional. To the north, the highest mountains on the Spanish mainland, Veleta and Mulhacén, rise up dramatically to the skyline (for much of the year covered by a thick blanket of snow). To the south, the Mediterranean Sea glistens beyond the coastal mountain ranges of Lujar and the Contraviersa. The Rif Mountains of Morocco are sometimes clearly visible from here, particularly in the mellow evening light of autumn and winter. Places don't come much more beautiful than this.
The village dates back to Roman times, but is perhaps more famous for its Moorish origins. Hence the classic architecture of the village, identical to Berber originals in the Atlas mountains of Northern Africa. Characterized by flat roofs and prominent chimney pots, the houses spill down the steep mountainside, connected by little walkways and by just one, narrow, winding, cobbled street. All around is glorious nature: chestnut, walnut, and oak trees, cherry and mulberry too. Here and there you will come across the locals tending their 'huertos' (little vegetable gardens), perhaps leading a small flock of goats or sheep to new pastures or returning home from a day's toil in the fields along with their mules.
Granada - 30 miles, Capileira - 1 mile, Pampaniera - 3 miles

Capileira

The highest of the three villages in the Barranco de Poqueira, at 4,700 feet, Capileira is a good base for walking in the gorge itself or up to the Sierra Nevada. Its twisting, steep streets are dotted with many springs gushing with fresh mountain water and there are superb views of the Poqueira gorge and the Sierra Nevada everywhere you look. With a population of 600, it's also the largest of the three villages in the Poqueira gorge. For the most outstanding views of the village and the Poqueira gorge, head north towards the river and you'll come to the Eras de Aldeire, a series of old threshing floors that were used for wheat and barley. On the southeastern edge of the village is a viewpoint (mirador) from where you can see down the Poqueira valley to Bubion and Pampaneira and north to the Veleta peak.
Granada - 46 miles, Bubion - 1 mile, Pampaniera - 4 miles

Pampaneira

One of a trio of popular and picturesque whitewashed villages, Pampaneira hugs the steep slopes of a lush river gorge, the Barranco de Poqueira. Pampaneira is the lowest of the three, at just over 3,200 feet. The small village, with a population of around 300, centers on its pretty square dominated by a 16th century Mudéjar church, the Iglesia de Santa Cruz, with a wooden coffered ceiling and a couple of gilded altarpieces dating from the 17th and 18th centuries. The church is flanked by several bars and handicraft shops.
Granada - 44 miles, Bubion - 3 miles, Capileira - 10 miles

Trevélez

Most well-known for its mouth-watering cured ham, jamon serrano, the village of Trevélez is the highest in mainland Spain, at 4,820 feet. Its clear mountain air is ideal for drying the sweet-tasting ham, which has its own Denominacion de Origen, although it's not as pricey as jamon from Jabugo in the Sierra de Aracena. Try it for yourself at any of Trevélez's many bars, which have hams hanging from the ceiling. Local specialties made with ham include habas con jamon (broad beans and ham) and fresh trout (trucha).
Located at the head of the steep-sided and dramatic Trevélez river valley, the village's population of around 800 is divided between three barrios: bajo, medio and alto. The lower section, Barrio Bajo, is the touristiest out of the three, and has the highest concentration of handicraft shops, bars and places to stay. If you want to hike to the peaks in the Sierra Nevada National Park, Trevélez is an excellent base with a well-trodden track leading from the village. It is also the starting point for trips to Las Siete Lagunas, seven impressive glacial lakes set in the mountains. For a shorter stroll, take the road next to the police station that crosses the Chico river from Barrio Medio. This leads to the Era de la Cruz, a old threshing floor from where there are fine views over the village and valley.
Granada - 56 miles, Bubion - 13 miles, Capileira - 15 miles

Pitres

Pitres is the capital of the area and its plaza is one of the most spacious around with lush trees. La Iglesia Parroquial del Cristo de la Expiración was built in the 16th century and almost totally reconstructed after it was plundered during the Civil War. Its inhabitants were labeled as louts when they asked the local government for a sea port (the coast is a short drive away). This bizarre request originated a fiesta where sardines are 'planted' in a dry riverbed and watered to make them grow. The highest of the villages in La Taha is Capileirilla, above Pitres, standing at an impressive 4,500 feet above sea level. Here you can see a well-conserved Visigoth temple from the 8th century, as well remains of another constructed in limestone and featuring elements of Gothic and Moorish architecture.
Granada - 47 miles, Bubion - 5 miles, Trevelez - 9 miles

Alhama de Granada

Considering how much it has to offer for a day's wandering around, Alhama de Granada is one of southern Spain's better kept secrets. A once grand market town and, historically, a vitally important strategic point between Malaga and Granada, it's now a lovely, rambling collection of narrow old streets hanging precariously over a gorge. In feel, it's like a slightly tumbledown version of Ronda, but without the hordes of tourists, and with a sleepy, slightly 'forgotten about' feel to it.
Down in the gorge, alongside a river, are the ruins of several old mills and their related waterways, washing 'sinks' carved into the rock (which were used up until the 20th century), remnants of fortifications and crumbling masonry. To get back up from the bottom, you follow the secret passageway that once allowed for unnoticed passage in and out of the old fortified town.
Granada - 36 miles