Overview

The incredible range of the Vosges Mountains extends across 112-miles from the German border near Wissembourg in the north to Belfort in the south. The mountain range lies in eastern France, near its border shared by three historic regions: Alsace to the east, Lorrain to the west, and Franche-Comté to the south, and it extends along the west side of the Rhine valley in a north-north-east direction.

The mountains offer thousands of miles of walking trails, all marked, including the GR5, GR7, and GR53. Bicyclists (of all levels) will find plenty of miles of cycling trails, while skiers and winter sports enthusiasts will enjoy several skiing areas that offer downhill skiing and cross-country routes. Nature lovers will love this natural region and discover the real and more rustic side of France.

The Northern Vosges (Vosges du Nord)

The Northern Vosges, known as “Vosges gréseuses” (the sandstone Vosges), is a protected area of woodland, wetland, farmland and historical sites. Sandstone outcrops characterize the vast forest belt that was officially designated as a regional natural park in 1976. It begins in the north of Donon and extends beyond the Franco-German border and into the nature park of the German Palatinate (Naturpark Pfälzerwald). The two parks were given the prestigious title of International Biosphere Reserve by UNESCO in 1991, a title which is only shared by some 320 sites worldwide.

The main objective of this transboundary biosphere reserve is to develop methods for the sustainable management of natural resources and to establish a new relationship between people and the environment. Through research and education with the participation of the local community this is being done. The transboundary biosphere reserves are now jointly cooperating for example to establish long-term monitoring sites of water and air, to create a strictly protected forest reserve and to maintain the lynx (wild cat) population.

The Higher Vosges (Hautes-Vosges)

The Higher Vosges, known as “The Cristallines Vosges” (for the granite cover of the mountains) located in the south, on the border between Lorraine, France-Comté and the Befort territory. The region boasts a variety of landscapes such as the Vosges mountains, the wine-growing area of Piemont, the valleys of the Thur and Doller, and the Rhine valley. The highest point, the Grand Ballon (4,672 ft.) features the mountain range’s highest peaks, which offer a panoramic view of the entire massif, the Jura Mountains, the Swiss Alps, and the Black Forest. Other major summits include the Hohneck, the Ballon d’Alsace, the Ventron, the Drumont, the Champ du Feu, and the Donon.

Many of the species that live in this region are critically endangered species such as the capercaille or the Tengmalm owl. Other species, such as the beaver were reintroduced. The Higher Vosges is a hikers paradise, for all levels of hikers, thanks to the vast hiking trail network that is maintained by the Vosges Club.

Climate of the Vosges

The unique climate of the Vosges mountains is semi-continental, with dry, warm summers, and often snowy and cold winters. In autumn, the extensive forests have fabulous colors. The Vosges act as a natural barrier against the oceanic disturbances coming from the west. The uniqueness of the Vosges mountains lies in the two slopes, steep on the Alsatian side and gently slope from the Lorraine and Franch-Comte side to merge with the Paris Basin. This explains the microclimate that the Vosges experiences, which is favorable for the towns located along the Alsace Wine Route.

Hiking in the Vosges

In the Vosges mountains, slopes are gentle and hiking is accessible to all. In this unique natural setting, each circuit takes in its own distinct territory that is rich in history. Here are a few favorite hikes of the Vosges Mountains:

Sentier des Roches (‘Rock Trail’): This trail is respected by every hiker and is known as one of the top trails, but also one of the most popular, with almost 40,000 hikers tackling it each year. It was created by the Club Vosgien of Munster in 1909. As its name suggests (Rock Trail), the trail is for advanced hikers as you will encounter many rock faces. If you are looking for a challenge, this is the hike for you.

GR53: This trial has connected Wissembourg with Donon since 1950. It is recommended to choose a route encompassing Mont Sainte-Odile, an emblematic site of the central Vosges in Alsace. The village is surmounted by Hohenbourg Abbey, a convent overlooking the Alsatian plain and founded by Saint Odile, patroness of Alsace. On a clear day, panoramic views of the Black Forest extend for miles.

Le Tour des Lacs: Three lakes, the Lac Blanc, the Lac Noir and the Lac Truites, make up this 7.5 mile hike, geared towards experienced walkers. The trail head is near the Col du Calvaire and is amazing for its fabulous scenery. The route ends near the Lac Blanc, which takes its name from the color of the crystalline sand lining its shores.

The Grand Ballon: This hike peaks at a whopping 4,671-ft. above sea level, the highest point of the Vosges mountains. One of the most popular hikes is to go around it. The departure is from the Hotel du Grand Ballon parking lot, then the route joins the GR5 to the Monument des Diables Bleus, which boasts spectacular views of the surroundings. It is barely 2 miles - and well worth it!

The Route du Fromage Trail: This will take you through all the farms and farm-inns linked to the iconic Munster cheese from eastern France, in the Munster valley. There are around 60 farms and cheese factories that offer hikers several options for itineraries on foot, by bike, or even donkey, with many samplings along the way!

Le Front des Vosges: Located about 12-miles from Mulhouse, this hike departs from the village of Wattwiller, known for its mineral water. The hike takes you in the footsteps of French soldiers during the First World War. The infamous Battle of Hartmannswillerkopf took place here, lasting a year between 191 and 1916 and leaving 15,000 dead.

Note: When you are hiking in the Vosges mountains, handheld GPS units can become very handy and decrease the chances of getting lost. Globosurfer.com will give you a comprehensive guide on how to choose a hiking GPS.

The Vosges: Two Different Cultures

As you explore the Vosges mountains, you will notice it is a land of contrast, which is apparent when you cross the Col de Bussang from the Thur Valley in Alsace to reach the Moselle Valley in Lorrain. The architecture of the houses between the two areas is entirely different, as is the dialect.

Legends continue to haunt isolated natural sites (isolated rocks, glacial lakes, localities, etc) on both the Lorraine and Alsatian side. Traditions and customs still live on, such as the celebrations of the Bonfires of Saint John at the end of June, which are of Celtic origin.

Cuisine

The Vosges Mountains offers authentic traditional farm gastronomy such as pies, quiche, sauerkraut, flammekueche, baeckeoffe stews, kougelhopf cake, and Munster cheese. Munster, the iconic cow’s-milk cheese, was born in the Vosges. Take the Route du Fromage trail to all the farms and farm-inns linked to the cheese business in the Munster Valley. There are around 60 farms and cheese factories to visit.

Enjoy an authentic traditional farm meal at a winstub or a farmhouse inn, or one of the many star-studded restaurants. A “marcair” meal served in the Vosges features pie as a first course and roïgabrageldi (potatoes with smoked pork shoulder) as a main. This is of course followed by munster cheese and a delicious blueberry tart (in summer). Wash it down with some local wine, beer or eau de vie.