GREEK ISLANDS - GETTING AROUND
Car rental companies can be found on all the larger Greek islands. Most are clustered around the airport or, if there is no airport, around or near the main port which is usually the main town.
Insist on a recent model and take a good look at the car before signing up. Check the rent a car over before getting in and point out any dents or scratches to the car rental company. Take photos of the car before getting in - no problem with a digital camera - so you can`t get accused of causing scratches and dents. Check you have decent insurance coverage too or an accident will prove very expensive indeed.
Do not drink and drive. There are police spot checks of rent a cars and fines can be very heavy. Also remember that seatbelts are compulsory and children under ten years old must sit in the back of your car. The legal blood alcohol limit is 0.05 % with a heavy fine or even prison for offenders. Police take random tests.
Greek roads have improved greatly in recent years, mainly as a result of Greece joining the EU. But island highways still leave a lot to be desired.
Potholes and loose gravel are the most dangerous hazards, missing or misleading signposts are as irritating as they are commonplace. Cliff roads are rarely fenced despite the Greek weakness for throwing up wire fencing almost everywhere else. Fallen rocks from cliffs can litter mountain roads and it is not unusual to find herds of goats wandering about or the odd snake taking a siesta on the hot tarmac.
Greek drivers are generally considered maniacs and it`s wise to always give way or allow them to overtake. Greece has the highest accident rate in Europe after Portugal. It is partly the state of the roads but mainly the attitude of Greek drivers.
In case of an accident, dial 112. This free 24-hour service was launched in 2001 for visitors. Callers get information in English, French and Greek about ambulance, fire, police and coastguard services, Operators stay on the line in case a tourist needs help with translation. Also note it is an offence to leave the scene of an accident and you can be held by police for questioning for up to 24 hours.
Speed limits in Greece
Built up areas 50 km/h
Main roads 90 km/h
Motorways 120 km/h
Drive only if you have a license. Rental firms don`t always ask.
Always carry your papers with you including the car company`s phone number.
Whatever you do, don`t follow the example of the Greeks themselves. They are some of Europe`s worst drivers as the accident rate shows and they show an outlandish disregard for tourists.
Remember that:
Greeks blast their horns at every opportunity, often at the drop of a hat, mostly for no reason at all. They ignore speed limits. The only Greek below the speed limit will be driving a tractor or have a missing wheel. They always tailgate. They say it stops others weaving in front at high speed. They have a point. They never use indicators. It`s a foreign affectation. Greeks know which way they are going. Who else needs to know? They believe its macho to overtake on blind corners. On a clear road you are a wimp. And if a Greek flashes his lights it does NOT mean he is waiting for you. It means `Get out of my way NOW or I`ll ram you into next week.`
The most popular way for visitors to get around in the islands is by moped. You can rent one in just about any small town in Greece, and at about €20 per day, they are a bargain. To rent a moped usually one has to exhibit a driver`s license (a Greek or international license is not required most of the time), pay the daily fee, and to leave a passport as guarantee that the moped will be returned.
While renting a moped is the most efficient way to get around the immediate area, they do become dangerous in the hands of an inexperienced driver. While most opt for the complete freedom of feeling the wind through the hair, wearing a helmet is strongly advised. The roads around Greece, and especially around the islands, are narrow, ill maintained, and car drivers drive like, well, Greek drivers. Mopeds are responsible for many tourist visits to the emergency room every year.
We do not recommend renting a moped in Athens or in any of the other big cities. It`s an option best considered in the small islands. Even experienced motorcycle riders would find driving around Athens a major hazard.
Motorbike rental is hugely popular but you should be aware of the dangers. Greece ranks worst of the European countries for motorbike road deaths. In the rest of the EU, fatal accidents involving motorbikes make up 17.7% of all road deaths, whereas in Greece the figure is close to 40%, making Greece the most dangerous country in Europe for motorcyclists.
Helmets are required by law and are provided by rental companies. Locals appear to ignore this rule with impunity but police have a habit of pulling over tourists.
If you head off for the hills take care; sharp bends are not always signposted, animals such as goats will often be found wandering the highway and large snakes basking on the hot tar are not uncommon. Loose grit on the road can also be a problem so you should know how to handle a bike in a skid. Your holiday can be ruined by a fall.
Road maps for the Greek Islands
For many islands, especially the smaller ones, local maps are works of fiction, bearing little resemblance to the road network. If you do get a map get a Greek one. You may not be able to pronounce the village names but at least the map hieroglyphs may almost resemble the road signs and you might just get a inkling of where you are.
That said, many signs do now have a phonetic English equivalent though they may still point the wrong way or announce you are in a place that does not exist. You will do well to adopt the Greek motto - there is always tomorrow. If in doubt stop at the nearest taverna and order a coffee and ask the waiter for directions. You could just settle for enjoying where you are - at least you won`t feel lost any more.
Taxi fares in the Greek Islands
Greek island taxis can be cheap in towns and drivers must use a meter. Fares are set by the government but it is always a good idea to agree the price (for the car not for each person) before you set off and if rates are reasonable there`s no reason not to give a generous tip.
Fares are controlled nationally but not always observed. Generally taxi drivers are honest and friendly but in tourist hotspots this may not be the case. Drivers in Athens for example are notorious for ripping off tourists and other visitors. On popular islands like Rhodes and Skiathos out-of-town charges can double for no apparent, or legal, reason so take care if you want to go off the main road.
Greek taxi drivers will often pick up other passengers on the way, it`s normal in Greece and helps drivers make themselves a decent living. Other passengers are not stealing your ride - they pay too and your fare stays the same.
Greek buses are cheap and punctual. Check local shops or post offices for timetables which may also be posted up at the odd bus stop.
Beware of travelling during the `tourist hours` of 10am to noon and 4 to 6pm when everyone is heading for the beach or heading back to the hotel. Everyone wants to travel and buses are crammed full. Conductors and drivers are usually very helpful but be prepared for buses to take the odd detour to drop off one of driver`s relatives or to deliver a parcel at a hillside village. Don`t worry, they get you there in the end.
The main Greek bus operator is KTEL.
Donkeys are used on many islands for rides but mostly to take tourists around for a stroll. In Santorini for instance you can climb up to the town from the harbor either on a donkey, or a cable cart. On many small islands few locals still use donkeys for transportation since they are very efficient on steep narrow streets.