EXPERIENCE CLERMONT-FERRAND
Overview
Clermont-Ferrand has been referred to as the best kept secret of Auvergne. It is one of the oldest cities in France. The town boasts a beautifully preserved cobblestone historic center, bustling markets selling the city's world-famous cheeses, several theatre, music and film productions, and volcanic mountains that are beautiful to hike. It is an industrious, artistic, and sporty city, home of the International Short Film Festival as well as Michelin, while also home to one of France's greatest rugby teams.
The city heritage spans two millennia: Strabo, the ancient greek geographer, called it "Nemessos" - a Gaulish word for sacred forest - and it was here that Vercingetorix defeated Julieus Caesar at the Battle of Gergovia. The large bronze statue of Vercingetorix stands proudly in the Place de Jaude which attests to the Gauls' valiant defeat of the Roman legions.
Strolling through the cobblestone center, the medieval architecture, stunning 18th century mansions, and numerous aged fountains represents the long history of this city's roots. The two-turreted 13th-century black cathedral stands brooding darkly against the skyline; dark due to the lave-rock that was used to build it, the Clermont-Ferrand is bordered by a 25-mile chain of volcanoes, which are dormant today.
Although the city is not really a tourist town it is none-the-less an attractive city, and it has some interesting highlights and one of the most active music scenes in France and is a good base for exploring the Auvergne. As one of the oldest cities in France, Clermont-Ferrand has a long history that has left a mark on its contemporary image.
Explore Clermont-Ferrand
Place de Jaude, located in the city center, is home to many hotels, cafes, stores, restaurants, and a shopping mall. This is also a gathering spot for sporting matches which are shown on giant screens, as well as to celebrate festivals. The centerpiece here is the large bronze statue of Vercingetorix, the Gallic leader, and Julius Caesar's opponent, during the Gallic Wars, 2,000 years ago.Cathedrale Notre-Dame-de-l'Assomption began construction in 1248 and was not finished until 1902. Like most of the old buildings and churches in this region, it was built with black volcanic rock, giving it a somber and ominous mood from the outside. The majesty of the architecture, embellishments, and religious iconography are awe-inspiring.
The city is ringed by extinct volcanoes, the highest being The Puy-de-Dôme, a 25-mile long range of dormant volcanoes whose highest point is the Puy de Dome, at 4,806 ft. Located only a few miles from the city limits, this is accessible by bus which goes to Panoramic de Dome, a great launching point to hike or take a train to the summit. At the top, visitors can parasail, go hiking, or visit the cafe.
L'Aventure Michelin is a mustum that tracks over a century of Michelin's innovations in the field of transport. The develoent, manufacture, and applications of the rubber tire are given particular focus. On disply are a Michelin railcare, developed in the 1930's to run on the invention; Eclair, which participated in teh world's first ever automobile rade; and a Breguet plane, a WWI biplane bomber which was produced by Micheline. Interactive exhibits and video presentations contribute to an experience that's both educational and entertaining.
Parc de Montjuzet is a hilltop park overlooking the city offering fabulous views of Clermont-Ferrand. It's a distinctive sable cathedral rising high above the neighboring houses, and teh volcano range in the distance. Steps wind up the hillside toward the 26 hectares of well-landscaped lawns and a Mediterranean garden, filled with cypress and olive trees, lavender, and rosemary. Montjuzet is a park which those of all ages can enjoy, the playgrounds provided for children and plenty of green spaces for picnicking or a relaxing stroll.
Musee d'Art Roger Quillot offers almost 2,000 works of art from the Middle Ages to the present day. The modern architecture has been conbined with that of a 17th century convent, with the main section designed around a central glass-rofed atrium that allows light to pour in. Among works are a portrait of King Louis XVI and a collection of the Expressionist Bernard Buffet's pieces.
Baslique Notre-Dame-du-Port is a lot less solemn than the city's cathedral. This sandstone basilica is still a structure of great beauty and historic importance. Designated a park of a UNESCO World Heritage site, the Romanesque church dates back even further than the cathedral, although both have been destroyed prior to their current state. It is also known for the unusual black Madonna, housed in a subterranean crypt.
Musée Bargoin is a great place to explore the textile arts with exhibits of carpets, tapestries, clothing, and furniture that originate from the Middle Easte, Central and East Asia, and North and South America. Also on display are the archeological artifacts of ancient societies local to the region, from prehistory to the Gallo-Roman period. Its Documentation Center contains over 2,500 books and the archive of a dozen journals, all relating to archaeology and the textile arts. This museum is free to all visitors.
Cuisine & Local Specialties
Getting to know the traditional dishes of the rural Auvergne region is to understand the region and culture itself. The food of the region is linked to the land, which is steeped in farming traditions, offering hearty dishes to help locals through the cold winter months. We listed a few dishes and products you'll want to be sure to try when your visiting this area.
The Auvergne region produces 25% of the entire French production of AOP (Appellation d’origine protégée quality label) cheeses. Saint-Nectaire is one of these cheeses and it has been produced in the region since teh 17th century. The cheese takes a minimum of 28 days to mature, turned over frequently to achieve the specific color of the Saint-Netaire rind. Cantal is another traditional cheese of the region that you'll see in every market and in restaurants. There are three trypes of ripening times - Young Cantal has ripened for 30 to 60 days, Cantal in between is 90 to 210 day, and Old Cantal has to be ripened to a minimum of 240 days.
Truffade is a local dish made up of potatoes, thinly sliced, mixed with fresh tomme cheese from Cantal. This dish is cooked until it is tenderized into a chunky paste substance with fresh parsley. Truffade is often served alongside a cut of meat and a salad or seasonal vegetables.
Soupe au chou is a combination of cabbage, pork, potatoes, and lard, it is another hearty dish that takes all the ingredients from the land. The soup is a local dish that you'll spot everywhere in the Auvergne.
Saucisse (Sausage) is on just about every menu from little cafes to restaurants. It is often eaten alongside other traditional dishes, such as aligot or a Potée Auvergnate, a hotpot dish that combines vegetables with potatoes, pork, leeks and turnips.
Lentils from Le Puy is a favorite in the area, served with lots of different things Grown on volcanic soil, these lentils, compared to others, have a distinct flavor and because of their protected state, only lentils grown near Le Puy-en-Velay that follow certain regulations can be labelled as Puylentils. Be sure to try some when you visit.
If you have a sweet tooth, try the tarte aux myrtilles, a delicious dessert of local blueberries. This is served throughout the region, and is especially popular in the summer months.
Things to Do Nearby
Be sure to visit Vichy, a spa and resort town. There is a direct train from Clermont-Ferrand to Vichy that takes about 30 minutes.
Nevers is visited by Pilgrims to venerate the incorrupt body of saint Bernadette in the convent to which she moved from Lourdes. Tere is a direct TER train from Clermont-Ferrand to Nevers that takes about 1 hour and 30 minutes.