A SHORT HISTORY OF MEXICAN CUISINE

Mexican cuisine starts with the very first agricultural peoples to live in what is now Mexico, namely the Maya. Mayan culinary traditions live on today, and out of all the indigenous populations of Mexico, the Mayans have not only had the largest impact on Mexican cuisine, they've also had the largest impact on Mexican cuisine worldwide. They were the first to cultivate corn, which is now a staple in countless diets the world over.

Other staples we take for granted originated from Mexico, such as tomatoes, avocados, vanilla, cacao, agave, mole, sweet potatoes, beans, chili peppers, and squash. The Spanish introduced staples such as rice, sugar, olive oil, and domesticated animals for food consumption, thus effectively melding the indigenous and the Spanish cooking styles and ingredients.

When Mexico achieved independence in 1821, the new country received many immigrants from Europe, the Middle East, and Asia, which saw the rise of various bread styles popular in Mexico today, such as the "concha" pan dulce, and the bolillo bun/roll. In the 20th century, American cultural influences seeped into Mexican cuisine, and vice versa. Nachos and burritos were invented and became popular American staples, and hamburgers and hot dogs became popular street foods in Mexico. In 2010, UNESCO named Mexican cuisine one of its "Intangible Cultural Heritages of Humanity".

A SAMPLING OF FOOD CITIES AND REGIONS IN MEXICO

Mexico City

Mexico City has the largest food scene in the country, which should be no surprise as it is home to the country's sole megalopolis. The country's capital is known for a few foods, particularly hearty soups such as "corn field soup" (sopa de milpa), made with onions, garlic, corn oil and chicken stock, among other ingredients; and fava beans in broth (caldo haba), made with fava beans, garlic, onions, tomatoes, mint, cilantro, and other ingredients. A spicier soup, caldo tlalpeño, includes steak, chickpeas, and chipotle peppers. Some additional comfort foods that come from Mexico City include the danger dog, which is a bacon-wrapped hot dog stuffed in a bolillo roll and topped with any type of ingredient you can imagine; and Swiss enchiladas (enchiladas suizas), a recipe noted for its use of cream and perfected at Sanborns Café, located inside The House of Tiles (Avenida Francisco I. Madero 4).

Mexico City has no Michelin-starred restaurants, but soon there will be, as Michelin publishes their first-ever guide for Mexico in 2023. Let me tell you a little bit about some of the best restaurants there are in the city. La Ópera (Avenida 5 de Mayo 10) has to get a Michelin star...it is one of the oldest restaurants in the city, having been open for 150 years and having welcomed such distinguished guests as Pancho Villa. El Cardenal (Calle Palma 23, Cuauhtémoc, Colonia Centro) is a shoo-in for a Michelin star, as it is already recommended as one of the top 100 traditional Mexican restaurants in the world. It is renowned for its egg dish escamoles, served with refried beans and "Mexican caviar", aka the eggs of ants. Don't be alarmed or disgusted for they are a delicacy; Mexican ant eggs are nearly as expensive as Russian fish eggs. El Cardenal is also well-known for its delicious enchilada and chilaquile dishes. The historic Café de Tacuba (Calle de Tacuba 28, Cuauhtémoc), open since 1912, has received international acclaim for their enchiladas, particularly their special sauce which combines green poblano peppers and spinach.

It might not win a Michelin star, but the no-frills Contramar (Calle Durango 200) is world-renowned not only for their tostadas but also for their aguachile de campechano, which is a shrimp, fish and octopus appetizer served in a spicy broth with red onions and cucumbers. Panadería Rosetta (Colima 179, Roma Norte), as a small take-away bakery, might not be in line for a Michelin star either, but they do have the most delicious "concha" pan dulce you'll find in all of Mexico.

Must-Savor Specialties: Sopa de milpa, caldo haba, danger dog, enchiladas suizas, escamoles, enchiladas, chilaquiles, tostadas, aguachile de campechano, "concha" pan dulce

Central Mexico and the Highlands

Central Mexico's culinary capital, without a doubt, is Puebla. Puebla is popularly known throughout Mexico for originating such dishes as the torta sandwich; chiles rellenos (stuffed and fried chili peppers); and the chalupa appetizer, made from masa flour. In Veracruz state, their most popular regional dishes are arroz a la tumbada (a seafood and rice dish cooked in a clay pot) and huachinango a la Veracruzana (red snapper cooked in a spicy tomato sauce with onions and peppers, served with capers, olives, and lemon wedges for garnish).

The main difference between a torta from anywhere else in Mexico versus one from Puebla is that Pueblan tortas use telera buns instead of bolillo buns as the bread. You can have your pick of any delicious torta or cemita (a similar sandwich with a sesame-seed bun featuring a fried cutlet of meat) at the popular restaurants Moyuelo (Avenida Juarez 1914-A1) and El Mural de los Poblanos (Calle 16 de Septiembre 506). The latter restaurant is also renowned for their chalupas, which you should order before your main meal.

Must-Savor Specialties: Torta, cemita, arroz a la tumbada, huachinango a la Veracruzana, chiles rellenos, chalupa

Oaxaca and the Pacific Coast

The Pacific coast of Mexico is known for quite a few popular Mexican dishes that we know and enjoy in the United States. The most popular of these is arguably carnitas (braised and slow-cooked pulled pork shoulder), which originates from the state of Michoacán. Jalisco state is known for birria (slow-cooked goat stew), the torta ahogada (a pork sandwich on a salted bun drizzled with spicy chili sauce), and a bacon-onion-bean stew called "carne en su jugo" (lit. "meat in its juices"). The delicious mole sauce is perfected in Oaxaca, and here you will not only taste one mole but seven of them. Oaxaca is also well-known for delicious street foods such as memela (griddle cakes made from masa and refried beans, topped with ingredients) and tlayuda (a large tortilla covered with beans, cheese, and lard, cooked, and then topped with meat and vegetables, typically served open-faced).

This region of Mexico is noted for its dairy production, with Oaxaca and Cotija cheeses which are popular ingredients in dozens of Mexican dishes coming from this part of the country. It is also world-renowned for its production of spirits, with tequila originating from the town of the same name in Jalisco, and mezcal (made from agave hearts) originating from Oaxaca.

We recommend stopping at the following restaurants for the best eats:

-Puerto Vallarta: Pancho's Takos (Calle Basilio Badillo 162) has two signature dishes: tacos al carbon (skirt steak tacos with meat grilled over hot coals) and tacos al pastor, which have received rave reviews from travel writers all over the world. For the best fajitas and guacamole, visit Pipis (Guadalupe Sanchez 804).
-Sayulita: Mary's Traditional Mexican Cuisine (Avenida Revolución 36) is known for their enchiladas, in particular their shrimp enchiladas, and you shouldn't miss them if you're in town.
-Guadalajara: La Chata (Avenida Terranova 405) is one of the most popular restaurants in town, known for their pozole (hominy soup) and queso fundido (fondue-type cheese). The authentic Kamilos 333 (Calle José Clemente Orozco 333, Santa Teresita) boasts a carne en su jugo that is to die for. Believe it or not, the best tortas ahogadas can be found at a local chain restaurant called Tortas Toño (flagship location Tierra de Fuego 3160-2, Providencia).
-Oaxaca City: Catedral Restaurant (Calle de Manuel García Vigil #105, Ruta Independencia, Centro) should be where you try the seven moles of Oaxaca. The restaurants has been open since 1977 and has prided itself on having the most authentic mole in town. Restaurante Casa Oaxaca (Calle de La Constitución #104-A, Centro) goes one step further, offering you some chapulines (fried grasshoppers) with your seven moles!
-San Cristobal de las Casas: For the most delicious and nourishing stews (caldos), go to El Caldero (Avenida Insurgentes 5-A, Zona Centro). The simple chicken soup and the aforementioned caldo tlalpeño are the most popular dishes.

Must-Savor Specialties: Tequila, mezcal, Oaxaca cheese, Cotija cheese, carnitas, birria, torta ahogada, carne en su jugo, the seven moles of Oaxaca, memela, tlayuda, queso fundido, pozole, chapulines

Yucatán Peninsula

Much of the culinary tradition in the Yucatán Peninsula comes from the Mayans who made their home here prior to colonization by the Spanish. The descendants that did survive the tough decades and centuries after colonzation live and thrive in this area today, and so too do their culinary traditions. The vast majority of the dishes in this region that are known to people across Mexico come from Yucatán state. The most popular of these include cochinita pibil (marinated pork baked in garlic and citrus), sopa de lima (chicken and tomato soup -- despite its name there are no limes), and papadzules (a crepe-type dish topped with a sauce made from pumpkin seeds and an herb called epazote, which you might see referred to as "Mexican tea"). The state of Quintana Roo has popularized their own dish, grouper fillets cooked in coconut milk, vegetables, garlic, and plantains called sere de pescado.

Mérida is home to a number of world-renowned restaurants, such as El Cardenal Cantina (Calle 63 527, Parque Santiago, Centro), La Chaya Maya (Calle 62 & Calle 57, Centro), and Restaurante Los Almendros (Calle 50-A 493, Centro). All three serve local delicacies such as cochinita pibil and sopa de lima. Halfway between Mérida and Valladolid, there is a small town called Izamal, and the Restaurante Kinich (Calle 27 299) serves not only the best papadzules in the world, but also the best poc chuc (pork marinated in citrus and served with 'chaya', a local beverage). The historic city of Valladolid is just minutes from Chichén Itzá, and after a day at the ruins, try their spins on cochinita pibil and papadzules at El Mesón del Marqués (Calle 39 No. 203, Centro). (Be sure to buy some authentic Mexican chocolate -- a little spicier than American -- while you're visiting Chichén Itzá!)

In Cancún, for a delicious tourist experience, try Hacienda Sisal (Blvd. Kukulcán, Zona Hotelera) which is sit-down, or The Surfin' Burrito (Kukulkan Km. 9.5, Punta Cancun, Zona Hotelera) which is meant for takeaway but has limited seating as well. La Choza Cozumel (Calle 10 Norte # 216, San Miguel de Cozumel) is the place on Cozumel Island to taste the best in Yucatán and Mexican cuisine. Mango Café (Avenida Payo Obispo) is a small, unassuming place in Isla Mujeres that has the most delicious quesadillas -- truly a best-kept secret! For delicious mollete sandwiches and chilaquiles, try La Cueva del Chango (Av 38 Norte Mz. 4 Lote 3, Zazil-ha) in Playa del Carmen. For pork cooked over an open flame, whether it's in tacos or in soups and stews, head to the most-recommended restaurant in town, El Fogón (Avenida Constituyentes, Quintas del Carmen, Gonzalo Guerrero). Finally, in Tulum, Taqueria Honorio (Satélite Sur) and Tamales Don Taco (Carretera Beta Sur) are the places to go to try some delicious tacos and tamales, street-food style. The charming sit-down restaurant Cetli (Carretera 109 Tulum Coba Km 2.5, Villas Tulum) is known for its mole blanco.

Must-Savor Specialties: cochinita pibil, sopa de lima, papadzules, epazote, sere de pescado, chaya, Mexican chocolate, poc chuc, mollete sandwich, tamales, mole blanco

Northern Mexico

Northern Mexican culinary specialties are sparse compared to other regions, but still iconic regardless. Nachos and burritos come from northern Mexico, and as such have been heavily incorporated into Tex-Mex cuisine that is very popular in the U.S. Cabrito (roasted young goat) is particularly popular in the city of Monterrey, where there are many restaurants and street food vendors that serve their twists on the delicious meat. One we recommend is El Rey de Cabrito, perhaps the best restaurant in its genre in the world. It is located at Avenida Constitución #2219 Pte., Obispado, in Monterrey. Monterrey is also the home of the Tecate brewery, one of the most popular Mexican beers.

Sopes, fried corn meal cakes topped with meat and other ingredients, are popular in the U.S. and originate from the northern Mexican state of Sinaloa. Farther north, you have Sonora state, known for such staples as the aforementioned tacos al carbon, delicious coyota cookies, and the spirit Bacanora, made from Pacific agave. In Chihuahua, you can taste the local variety of cheese here, which is typically used in dishes such as enchiladas coloniales, which are fried and then baked with lots of gooey cheese. Sotol is a popular spirit produced in Chihuahua, made from the local "desert spoon" plant.

Must-Savor Specialties: Nachos, burritos, cabrito, Tecate beer, sopes, tacos al carbon, caldo de queso, coyotas, Bacanora, Sotol, enchiladas coloniales

Baja California

Baja California serves some of the best street food you'll find in Mexico. Fish and shrimp tacos are particularly popular, and Tijuana and Ensenada in particular are famed for their taquerias, such as Mariscos el Mazateño (Calz del Tecnológico 473, Tomas Aquino) in Tijuana and Tacos Marco Antonio (Av Rayon 351, Obrera) in Ensenada. Tijuana is also well-known for its Puerto Nuevo-style type of lobster, cooked and then fried in butter and lard, and served with rice and beans. Caldo de queso soup, cooked with potatoes and onions, comes from Baja California as well, as does...Caesar salad. For the original Caesar salad recipe, try Caesar's restaurant in Tijuana (Avenida Revolución 1059, Zona Centro), which first served the ubiquitous starter back in the 1920s.

Must-Savor Specialties: Baja California blue fish, tacos de pescado, tacos de camarones, langosta de Puerto Nuevo, caldo de queso, Caesar salad