Overview

History has left its mark on the Meuse department (western Lorraine region named after the river Meuse). This is a land with a past. From north to south and east to west, the historical and cultural heritage is a reminder of days long gone. This is a region that is most visited for its war related sights.

The strategic, geographic location of the Western Lorraine (Meuse department) has given the area a rich cultural and architectural heritage worth exploring and one which will appeal to history buffs who enjoy discovering some of the more unusual facts and figures.

History

In 1914, Europe dominated the world. The super powers were fighting among themselves over economic and political issues, and two groups of defensive alliances were formed in order to prevent war from breaking out: on one side, the Triple Entente (France, the UK, Russia, and their colonial empires), and on the other, the Triple Alliance (Germany, Austria-Hungary, Italy and their colonial empires).

The assassination at Sarajevo on June 28, 1914 gave ammunition to the fighting, bringing on the war: following the assassination by a Bosnian student of Franz Ferdinand, the heir to the Austrian-Hungarian Empire, and his wife, Austria-Hungary tried to resolve the Balkans Crisis once and for all by reducing Russia’s influence in the Balkans. By virtue of the alliances, this regional crisis meant that a large part of Europe became involved in the war; by the beginning of August, virtually all European countries were caught up in the conflict. Germany declared war on France and invaded it extremely quickly.

Both alliances were gradually joined by several more countries: the Triple Entente welcomed Belgium and Japan in 1914, Italy in 1915, Portugal in 1916 and the US in 1917, whilst the Ottoman Empire and the Kingdom of Bulgaria joined forces with the Triple Alliance in 1914 and 1915, thereby turning this European conflict into the first world war.

Verdun

Verdun, located in the north of the region, was the scene of the most terrible battles in the history of war, from 1916-1918. The war resulted in about 750,000 casualties of French and German soldiers, and even today, many people visit here to pay tribute and their respects to those who died. The World War I battlefields, 1 ¾ miles east of town, are what bring most visitors to Verdun. Two monuments commemorate these tragic events: Rodin’s La Défense and Boucher’s To Victory and the Dead.

The Verdun tourist office provides maps for two tours of the brutal and bloody battlefields that helped define World War I. The Circuit Champs de Bataille Rive Droite on the River Meuse’s right bank is a 20-mile route that takes you through Fort Vaux, the 16,000 graves of the French cemetery an endless field of crosses, and the Ossuaire de Douaumont, a memorial containing the skeletal remains of soldiers who died on the battlefield during the Battle of Verdun in WWI.

Nearby, at the Fort de Douaumont, the “hell of Verdun” was unleashed. From the roof, you can look out at a vast field dotted by the corroded tops of the tiny “pillbox” guard posts. Also nearby is the Tranchée des Baïonettes (Trench of Bayonets) a unique memorial to the Battle of Verdun in 1916. Originally built in 1967, the museum recently underwent 2 years of renovation which were unveiled in 2016. The sleek new exhibition space chronicles the savage battle through thematic displays of weapons, uniforms, vehicles, and archival material.

The second self-guided tour, known as Circuit Champs de Bataille Rive Gauche (or “Circuit de l’Argonne”), which covers 60 miles of (mostly) outdoor sites. It encompasses the Butte de Montfaucon, a hill on which Americans erected a memorial tower, and the Cimetière Américain at Romagne (American Cemetery), with over 14,000 graves of American soldiers who fought in WWI. The British Battlefield Tours Research Society offers group and private tours of the area. It is a humbling experience to visit.

After exploring the battle grounds, head into the town of Verdun, a charming center with stone houses on narrow cobblestone streets that give Verdun a medieval appearance. It is known as the center of production for the hard-shell dragee almond confectionery. At Dragées Braquier, you can tour the plant operations and then enjoy the colorful candy shop. In the old section, the Ville Haute, on the east bank, you’ll find the cathedral and Episcopla palace.

These hills outside of Verdun were transformed in battle from farmland into a lunar wasteland. All around the vast battle terrain, visitors today follow countless communications and combat trenches whose zigzag lines have narrowed greatly through erosion and the rotting of the parapets. Yet, along the way you can still find, say, an old rusty fork or shrapnel that rain has churned up from the soil.

Bar-le-Duc

Bar-le-duc may not be as well-known as other cities in France, but don’t let that fool you. Bar-le-duc is a small, but amazingly charming town, classified as a Ville d’Art et d’Histoire (City of Art and History), and an up and coming tourist destination that is well worth a visit. You will be surprised by some of the unique things to do and places you can explore at this hidden destination.

Discover the interesting old town center and the numerous renaissance style buildings. The town is renowned for its annual Renaissance Festival, which takes place the first weekend in July. Perched on a hilltop, the Ville Haute (Upper Town) is home to many important landmarks from the medieval and Renaissance eras, including the Gothic Eglise Saint-Etienne and the 16th-century Chateau des Ducs de Bar, a Historic Monument that was once the residence of the Dukes of Bar and Lorraine. The chateau now houses the Musee Barrois, a museum that was modeled after the Louvre in Paris.

In the Ville Basse (Lower Town) are more modern monuments, such as the Eglise Saint-Jean, which exemplifies a blend of Neo-Gothic, Neo-Romanesque and Neo-Byzantine architectural styles.

Cuisine

Alsatians are hearty eaters, with their local cuisine characterized by generous helpings of pork, potatoes and spaetzle (a type of pasta usually fried in butter). But the region also has an international reputation for gastronomy, with exciting, new and well-established Michelin-starred restaurants dotted across its towns and villages.

On a sweeter note, Alsatians love their pastries. In almost every patisserie, you’ll find a mouthwatering variety of fruit tarts made with rhubarb (topped with meringue), wild blueberries, red cherries or yellow mirabelle plums. Cake-lovers should try kugelhopf, a dome-shaped cake with a hollow in the middle made with raisins and almonds.

Gastronomically no less renowned in Lorraine where you’ll find favorites such as savory pies, the quiche lorraine, and an alcoholic sorbet, the coupe lorris aine.

Wines of Alsace

Despite the Germanic names, Alsatian wines are unmistakably French in their ability to complement the region’s traditional cuisine. This is white wine country – if you do spot a local red, it will invariably be a Pinot Noir. Winemakers take advantage of the long, dry autumns to pick extremely ripe grapes producing wines with slightly more sweetness than other French regions, but good wines will have a refreshing natural acidity, too. Each of the three main grape varieties listed below can be made with a sweetness level ranging from off-dry right through to “Séléction des Grains Nobles” for the most highly prized dessert wines (vendages tardives being the label for the slightly less sweet late-harvested wines). Grand Cru labelled wines come from the best vineyard sites.

Riesling is a favorite thirst-quencher, with limey undertones, and often a hint of peach. These go excellent with fish dishes and choucroute.

Gewurztraminer is Alsace’s most aromatic grape, with roses, lychees, honey, spices and all manner of exotic flavors. This wine goes great with pungent cheeses or rich pâté.

Pinot Gris is heavier, fruity, and more understated than the Gewurztraminer. This is a more versatile food wine that goes well with white meat in creamy sauces and milder cheeses.

Some alternative wines you’re likely to come across include the grapey Muscat, Sylvaner, and fine Pinot Blanc/Auxerrois, which also forms the base of the region’s outstanding sparkling Crémant d’Alsace. Pinot Noir is used for light, fruity reds and rosés.