A SHORT HISTORY OF MOROCCAN CUISINE

Many ethnic groups influenced cuisine in Morocco, starting with the Berbers, who arrived in Morocco around the beginning of the Common Era. Dishes such as tajine (tajine pots pictured), couscous, and reliance on such ingredients as dates (tmer) and figs (kermous) were crucial to the diet even back then. With the Arab conquest of Morocco in the seventh century CE, the new arrivals not only brought Arabic language and Islam to Morocco, they also brought with them grains, allowing for the creation of such popular breads as khobz (flatbread) and sfenj (Moroccan-style donuts, pictured). The Arabs also brought with them spices such as cumin, caraway, saffron, and cinnamon, which became very popular in Moroccan dishes. The Andalusians brought with them olives and olive oil and pastilla (a savory pie wrapped in crisp pastry), the Ottomans brought the concept of the kebab (called kefta in Morocco), and the French brought with them patisseries, wine, and ice cream (glace, just like it is called in France). With independence in 1956, Moroccan food went global as Moroccans emigrated to a number of countries such as France, the UK, and the U.S. Moroccan cuisine was represented with restaurants in most major cities by the end of the 1970s. Six Moroccan restaurants have Michelin stars worldwide, but none in Morocco -- there is no Michelin Guide for the Kingdom.

Must-Savor Specialties: Tajine, couscous, tmer (dates), kermous (figs), khobz, sfenj, Moroccan olives, pastilla, kefta, Moroccan ice cream (glace)

A SAMPLING OF FOOD CITIES IN MOROCCO

Southern Morocco (Marrakech, Essaouira, and Agadir)

Marrakech has the largest food scene out of any other city in Morocco, perhaps unsurprising considering so many tourists visit the city each year. Marrakech doesn't have a restaurant culture like other cities do; many locals eat food at home for dinner and visit cafés and other informal eateries in other parts of the day. With that said, there is a local culture beginning to blossom in the Gueliz neighborhood.

Marrakech boasts restaurants that serve the best tajine (meat or vegetarian stew cooked with fruits and vegetables, pictured), couscous (small steamed semolina balls served with stew), pastilla, harira (a stew with tomatoes, lentils, chickpeas, rice, onions, and meat), and seffa (sweetened couscous with cinnamon and almonds) in the world. Well-recommended restaurants include Le Tanjia (Place des Ferblantiers), Cafe Arabe (184 Rue Mouassine), Pepe Nero (17 Derb Cherkaoui), Al Fassia (55 Boulevard Mohamed Zerktouni), The Red House (Angle Avenue El Yarmouk Et Abdelaziz El Malzouzi), and La Grande Table Marocaine (inside the Royal Mansour Marrakech, Rue Abou Abbas El Sebti Royal Mansour).

Marrakech is also the epicenter of Moroccan street food. Go to any of the souqs or the Jemaa el-Fna to find snak kiosks with such tasty and unique food items as merguez (Moroccan spicy sausage) and teyhan (stuffed camel spleen, pictured). Tips for eating street food in Marrakech: go to the most crowded stalls, as that means locals approve of the food quality and it will be delicious; and make sure to use bread to scoop up any leftover bits or sauce. If you request a fork, be warned that it may not have been washed properly from the last customer; many food stalls do not keep soap on hand and the forks may have simply been run under a faucet of water.

As you make it to the coast, seafood is much more plentiful. Essaouira is known for such local dishes as sardine tarts (fatayer alsardin) and seasonal tajines ranging from pumpkin and artichoke to sardine balls (boulettes de sardines). Agadir is known for its argan oil production and seafood restaurants with their Moroccan twist on paella (albayila almaghribiya).

Must-Savor Specialties: Tajine, couscous, pastilla, harira, seffa, merguez, teyhan, fatayer alsardin, boulettes de sardines en tajine, Moroccan paella (albayila almaghribiya)

Interior Morocco (Fez, Meknes, and Moulay Idriss)

While Marrakech might have the most buzzing food scene in the Kingdom, Fez's culinary scene is considered to be the heart and soul of Moroccan cuisine. Fez's food scene was built out of necessity, and that necessity continues today, as many people in the city don't have their own refrigerators and as a result need to buy food freshly, or they need to buy food to either consume that evening or cook that evening. Fez is well-known for having the best zaalouk (cooked eggplant and tomato salad) restaurant in the country (The Ruined Garden, 15 Derb Idrissy Sidi Ahmed Chaoui Medina), and for the wonderfully peaceful experience of sitting down at a café or strolling through a souq with a delicious crispy pancake (msemen) in one hand and Moroccan mint tea (atay almaghrebi bin nana) with honey (easal) in the other. A popular condiment and garnish that's native to Fez is tfaya, featuring caramelized onions, honey, raisins, peanuts, cinnamon, and saffron.

Meknes's culinary scene is no rival to Fez, but there are restaurants such as Omnia (8 Derb Ain Fouki Rouamzine) that boast very delicious kamama (beef and chicken cooked with tomatoes and honey), and bissara (soup made of fava beans) is the signature dish at the stalls outside the Bab El Jdid gate. Moulay Idriss is well-known for its nougat production, a world leader in fact. You can sample the local nougat from a number of market stalls near Place Moulay Idriss Premier. Volubilis Restaurant near the plaza is a popular traditional Moroccan restaurant in the city, as is Dar Zerhoune.

Must-Savor Specialties: Zaalouk, msemen, Moroccan mint tea, easal (honey), tfaya, kamama, bissara, nougat from Moulay Idriss

Casablanca and Rabat

Compared to Marrakech and Fez, Casablanca's food scene lacks in some ways but makes up for its shortcomings in others. While international cuisines are popular in both of the aforementioned cities, Casablanca is where the most international cuisines and influences converge to create Morocco's most cosmopolitan food scene. Some of the most popular restaurants in Casablanca combine Moroccan fare with Spanish parrillada barbecue (at Le Cabestan, 90 Boulevard de la Corniche) or French pastries (at Le Gatsby, Angle Boulevard Sidi Mohamed Ben Abdellah et Boulevard Sour Jdid) or haute cuisine (like at Le Quatorze, 14 Rue Najib Mahfoud; or at La Closerie, 185 Boulevard Bir Anzarane). Casablanca's restaurant scene would not be complete without mentioning the garden restaurant La Sqala in the Old Medina (Boulevard des Almohades), well-known for their briouat Moroccan pastries (pictured) and harsha semolina pan-fried bread, and Rick's Cafe (248 Boulevard Sour Jdid), serving Moroccan dishes like fisherman stew (shawrabat alsamak almaghribia) with theming and decor right out of the popular 1940s movie starring Ingrid Bergman and Humphrey Bogart.

Rabat's food scene is small but it was heavily influenced by the French from the colonial times in the early 20th century. Head to the Central Medina when you are in Morocco's capital, Rabat: you will be able to try such delicacies as mokh mchermel (sheep brains, pictured). It is a dish that is not for the faint of heart, but you won't get more Moroccan and more niche of a delicacy than this one. Rabat is best-known for its French restaurants, such as Cosmopolitan (Avenue Ibn Toumert et Rue Abbou Abbas El Guerraoui) and Restaurant Villa Mandarine (19 Rue Ouled Bousbaa).

Must-Savor Specialties: Parrillada, French-style viennoiserie, briouat, harsha, fisherman stew (shawrabat alsamak almaghribia), sheep brains (mokh mchermel), French-style cuisine in Rabat

Northern Morocco (Tangier, Asilah, and Chefchaouen)

Northern Morocco has just the right mix of cuisines: Tangier, mere miles from continental Europe, has been heavily influenced by the Andalusians, the greater Spanish culinary tradition in general, as well as the French tradition. The tajine at Le Saveur du Poisson (2 Escalier Waller) came recommended by such illustrious chefs as the late Anthony Bourdain. Head to the souk to try some more dishes and snacks that Tangier does best, such as sardines with chermoula (tomato paste with cilantro, chili, and garlic with olive oil and lemon juice), fried eggplant fritters (zlluca), and snail soup flavored with mint and licorice (babbouche). Asilah has a prominent restaurant scene, with seafood at the forefront. The restaurants around the fish market near the main city gate are popular with locals and tourists alike. (Pictured: Casa Pepe Restaurant at Plaza Zalaka.) Arguably the best briouat pastries in the country can be found at Dar Al Maghrebia Restaurant (7 Rue Al Banafsaje).

Chefchaouen has the strongest culinary tradition of any of the northern Moroccan cities. Chefchaouen is considered the epicenter for Mediterranean cuisine in Morocco, so much so that its contributions earned the city a spot on the UNESCO List of Intangible Cultural Heritage. You can't go wrong if you select one of the dozens of restaurants in the streets that branch off from Place Outa El Hamam. Centuries of Moorish and Spanish influence have brought the traditional Mediterranean diet to the area, which is heavy on olive oil, seafood, and wine, much like the eating regimes found in southern Europe. Popular restaurants include Assaada (Rue Abi Khancha), Bab Kasaba, and Marisco Twins (both on Place Outa Hammam).

Must-Savor Specialties: Fish tajine, sardines with chermoula, zlluca, babbouche, briouat, seafood in Asilah, Mediterranean cuisine in Chefchaouen