COUNTY CORK - TOWNS AND VILLAGES

Allihies

Near the tip of the Beara Peninsula, this was the center of a rich copper mining district. Cornish workers were brought over in the 19th Century as technical experts and some remains of their 'Cornish Village' can still be seen. Around the workings you can pick up nice rocks glittering with pyrites - 'fool's gold' - but please be extremely careful if exploring here as there are dangerous unguarded mineshafts and other hazards. The drive from here along the north coast of the peninsula to Eyeries and Ardgroom following the signposted 'Ring of Beara Drive' offers superb views of the coast and mountains of Iveragh, the peninsula across Kenmare Bay, which is home to the 'Ring of Kerry' tourist route.

Ballincollig

Now a rapidly growing satellite town of Cork City, it had, during the last century, an enormous gunpowder mills, sited beside the River Lee. This has now been turned into a recreation area, and you can walk through the various old buildings and see the canals that worked the grinding wells and carried materials from one place to another. An exhibition center, which deals with the Royal Gunpowder Mills has been opened by Cork County Council. Access to this is by the entrance to Powder mills from the center of Ballincollig.

Ballinhassig

The traditional farming community of Ballinhassig is situated on the N71 within 6 miles of Cork City. This gateway to West Cork offers visitors a full range of facilities including restaurants and pubs with free Irish entertainment. The area is known for road bowling and a thriving equestrian environment, featuring hunting, point-to-point meetings, gymkhanas, riding centers and horse breeders. Locally, a typical working Open Farm hosts a range of farm animals including unusual breeds, allowing adults and children firsthand views of farm life. The farm is signposted off the N71. The village of Halfway offers free access to an agricultural and transport museum displaying examples of machinery, vehicles and farming implements of a bygone era.

Ballycotton

Ballycotton, 30 minutes drive east of Cork city, is a hilly fishing port much favored by deep sea anglers. It offers fantastic views over a boat filled harbor to a steep island crowned by a lighthouse. There are cliff walks, and inland an extensive marshy bird sanctuary. Ballycotton also has its very own Hollywood connection. The famous actress Angela Landsbury from 'Murder She Wrote' is a frequent visitor and a proud owner of a holiday home here. Marlon Brando spent some time here while filming the ill fated film Divine Rapture back in the early 1990's.

Ballygarvan

Traveling southwesterly on the R613 to Kinsale and West Cork, Ballygarvan is situated in the heart of the picturesque and peaceful Owenabue Valley. The unspoiled scenery with its wildlife, country lanes and the banks of the Owenabue River is a walking enthusiasts dream. Amenities include pubs with traditional Irish music, restaurants, shops, a Post Office, Bureau de Change and accommodation. A custom built clay pigeon shooting range increasingly welcomes visitors into the area. This local community has great sporting traditions in Gaelic Games and in the ancient game of Road Bowling. Centrally located, Ballygarvan is only a short distance from Cork Airport (1.5 miles) and Cork City (5.5 miles).

Ballyhooly

West of Fermoy in the Mallow direction is Ballyhooley, once a landlord village of Lord Listowel. Nearby lies Ballyhooley Castle. The large mansion at the end of the village was built by Countess Listowel in 1871 to 'balance' the street after the Roman Catholic Church had been erected in 1870 at the other side of the street. There are fine stud farms in this area.

Baltimore

Baltimore is an historic village of many parts - a fishing port and yachting center, departure and arrival point for ferries serving Cape Clear and Sherkin Island, as well as having fine pubs and restaurants. The ruined castle, which overlooks the harbor, was a holding of the O'Driscolls, who were one of the most important clans in West Cork. They controlled the fishing of the area and could levy dues on all the fishing fleets who came to these rich fishing grounds. An extraordinary event in the history of the town was a raid in 1631 by Algerian pirates, when many of the inhabitants were slaughtered and about 200 others shipped off as slaves to North Africa. Baltimore has a reputation for fine boat building.

Bandon

Bandon is the largest town in West Cork and is regarded as the gateway to West Cork. The Bandon River Valley has the finest agricultural land in West Cork and, in a clean, green environment is grown and reared the raw materials that form the ingredients of the food fare for which the area is famous. The Bandon region is very popular with anglers as there is great salmon and trout fishing in the area. It was established by the Great Earl of Cork, Richard Boule, who acquired vast estates in Munster in 1608, having arrived from England with no more than twenty pounds, a diamond ring, a gold bracelet and his clothes.

Bantry

Famous in song, Bantry Bay is of legendary beauty. Bantry, at the head of the bay, is a busy market town and fishing port. Bantry Bay was twice entered by French fleets: in 1689 to support James II against William of Orange and in 1796 to aid Wolfe Tone and an Irish uprising. A storm dispersed the 1796 fleet and few of the ships made the Bay. Bantry House, open to the public, is spectacularly situated and exuberantly furnished. It is one of Ireland's most attractive Great Houses, full of treasures collected by various generations of Earls of Bantry from all parts of the world. In the courtyard of Bantry House, The French Armada Exhibition Center has been developed. This features the ill-fated French Armada invasion of December, 1796.

Blarney

Famed for the stone and its verdant setting, Blarney is just 5 miles from Cork City. Along with Killarney, Blarney is probably the best known and most visited place in Ireland. Blarney castle and its 'Stone of Eloquence' is the lure. There are good shopping opportunities for handcrafted goods of all kinds. Outside Blarney a small environmental park has been developed. Woodland walks have been opened up and a number of different species of animals can be seen.

Cape Clear Island

An 8 mile ferry boat trip from the picture postcard village of Baltimore, past Sherkin Island and Roaringwater Bay brings the visitor to the island of Cape Clear, a well known haven for yachtsmen, boatmen and deep sea fishing folk. This is a thriving Gaeltacht area where most of the 150 inhabitants speak both Irish and English. Irish summer schools are held on the island, which as the largest of Carberys hundred isles, is 3 miles long and 2 miles wide. October is a busy month for bird watchers - Cape Clear, which has a bird observatory, is a bird watchers paradise. The Island has an abundance of pubs and restaurants, craft shops and a museum and there is even a goat keeping course held on the island.

Carrigaline

Located 7.5 miles from Cork City and 3 miles from Ringaskiddy Ferryportor Cork Airport. Famous for its pottery, Carrigaline is one of threesatellite towns built around Cork City. It is the largest in theOwenabue Valley, offering visitors a very comprehensive range ofservices and facilities. Currabinny Forest Trail is just a shortdistance east of Carrigaline and represents one of many scenic walks inCarrigaline and its environs. St John's Holy Well on the outskirts ofthe town is a recognized historical landmark.

Castletownbere

Castletownbere is the principal town on the Beara peninsula. It is thelargest whitefish port in Ireland. Berehaven being the second largestnatural harbor in the world, it is a safe anchorage for yachts and isideal for water sports, from sea angling to windsurfing. Just outsidethe town is Berehaven Golf Club. This 9-hole golf club has magnificentviews of Bere Island and Berehaven Harbor. The scenery really surpassesitself on the Ring of Beara, around Allihies, Ardgroom and Eyeries. Ifyou have the energy, The Beara Way route has a multitude of choices forhikers of all abilities.

Castletownroche

West of Glanworth lies Castletownroche on the Awbeg River, or the MullRiver of Edmund Spencer's Faerie Queen. Extinct mammoth reindeer and'Irish Elk' remains were found in a limestone gorge here. The 13th c.Augustinian Bridgetown Abbey ruins are nearby. The abbey was once hometo 300 monks and a medieval boarding school. In 1540 Henry VIII grantedthe abbey to an English soldier, Rob Brown. Castle Curious is 19th c.folly built by the local eccentric Johnny Roche, who alsosingle-handedly built a wool mill and a flannel mill, made musicalinstruments and made false teeth out of cows hooves. He wrote his ownepitaph: 'Here lies the body of Johnny Roche, He had his faults butdon't reproach, For when alive his heart was mellow'.

Castletownshend

Castletownshend is a quaint village, which provided inspiration for writers Somerville and Ross. The main street is a steep hill, which leads down past the castle to the waterfront and what can only be described as an idyllic setting.

Clonakilty

West Cork's most vibrant town. It is a busy market town located near to several popular seaside resorts such as Inchadoney and Owenahincha. Fine 19th century mill buildings have been nicely adapted for modern use, and now house the town library and County Council offices. Nearby, a small disused Presbyterian Church has been put to service as the post office. Local planning authorities have encouraged the use of traditional hand painted signs with a special emphasis on the Irish language on business premises in the town. See also the finestatus of a pikeman. For a town of its size, the Roman Catholic Church is impressive, with fine glass and mosaics. The town center is the home of the noted street theatre group Craic na Caoillte and the impressive Model Railway Village Project.

Cloyne

Cloyne, a small and ancient cathedral town, is especially well known through its strong associations with Bishop Berkeley the famous 18th century philosopher, born in Kilkenny. He was Bishop of Cloyne from 1734 to 1753. The origin of Cloyne can be traced back to St. Colman in the 6th century who founded the See of Cloyne. An interesting feature at Cloyne is one of the places of refuge for Christian monks at times of attack and plunder.

Cobh

Last port of call for hundreds of thousands of emigrants, as well as for the Titanic. Cobh (pronounced 'cove') is a relatively modern town on the eastern side of Cork Harbor, 15 miles from Cork city. It is an important Irish port of call for cruise liners. Entering the harbor passengers have a fine view of the town, with its houses rising on a terraced hillside beneath the towering form of St. Colman's Cathedral. The beautiful Gothic Revival Cathedral of St. Colman, with its blue granite exterior and carillon of forty-seven bells, is one of the finest in the world. The Old Church Cemetery is the burial place of Tobin, the playwright, Wolfe, author of 'The Burial of Sir John Moore', and more recently, hundreds of the victims of the Lusitania, sunk by a German submarine off Kinsale in 1915. There is a memorial to the disaster on the quayside. A heritage center, which features the history of Cobh and its involvement with sea transport and wartime significance opened in 1993. The Royal Cork Yacht Club at Cobh is the oldest of its kind in the world, dating back to 1720.

Crosshaven

Crosshaven is an historic fishing village and also headquarters of the Royal Cork Yacht Club, reputed to be oldest club in the world. Nearby are fine beaches such as Fountainstown and Myrtleville, to mention just two. Also noted for water based activities is Monkstown, just down the road from Passage West. It is one of the terminals of the cross river car ferry service, linking it with Cobh and the East Cork area.

Drimoleague

Drimoleague nestles peacefully on the banks of river Ruggagh, a tributary of the Ilen river, which flows into Skibereen. Drom-Dha-Liagh means the ridge or back of two flag stones. A few hundred yards from the village is the famine memorial on the site of the famine pit. The old village of Drimoleague was referred to as Bothar Srufawn. It was situated on both sides of the rock road, due north of the present village. Drimoleague has a converted mill now an artistic center worth seeing. There are some nice hill-walking routes nearby.

Glanmire

Glanmire is a quaint village nestling on an inlet of Lough Mahon (upper Cork Harbor). Nearby the historic houses of Dunkathel and Riverstown are open to the public.

Glanworth

An excursion to Glanworth is worthwhile for its views of the River Funcheon, its natural setting and pleasant walks in the nearby Araglin Valley. In the village are the ruins of three churches. The extensive ruins of the old Roche Castle here are currently being restored. In 1200 this was the scene of single combat between the rivals for the hand in marriage of Amice, daughter (and heiress) of Sir William Fleming, a Norman Knight. Sir William Condon, his suit being refused, surrounded the Castle with an armed troop. Richard Roche and his followers arrived, and a fight ensued in which Condon was killed and Roche won the lady's hand, and the estate, forever.

Glengarriff

Relaxed and scenic, on Bantry bay. The name comes from 'An Gleann Garbh' - the rugged glen - which is derived from the rugged beauty of the mountains and wooded valleys surrounding the village. Magnificent views of the Caha Mountains and the bulk of Sugarloaf can be seen from the numerous viewpoints along the roads, which hug the coastline or wind along the steep sided valleys. No introduction to Glengarriff would be complete without mention of Garnish Island - Ireland's most outstanding garden island with its internationally famous collection of plants and world-renowned for its Italian Gardens.

Glenville

Glenville is a Monor Village circa 1799/1800. It is situated in a beautiful setting. It is 12 miles from Cork. One side of this village is bordered by a Famine Wall. Other historical and archaeological sites include: A Famine Road, 1 mile, open to the public. This road leads directly to Doonpeter, a pre-Christian ring fort; A Famine Burial Ground and Holy well and a Mass rock hidden in a very beautiful valley.

Goleen

Goleen is a pretty village in a lovely setting on the road to Mizen Head, where the Mizen Vision project is worth daring to cross the lofty bridge to the former lighthouse keepers' quarters. Barleycove beach is one of the finest in all Ireland and, not far away, is the laid back ambience of Crookhaven village. Coming back from the Mizen, it is worth turning off for Durrus to travel along the southern shore of Dunmanus Bay. There, one may head straight for Bantry or take the scenic route back through Ahakista and Kilcrohane, via Sheep's Head Peninsula.

Gougane Barra

This lake, the source of the River Lee, is set amid magnificent mountain scenery with brooding cliffs rising above the dark waters. In the lake is a tiny island connected to the mainland by an artificial causeway. The island was the site of the hermitage of Saint Finbarr, patron saint of Cork. Nothing now remains of this early building, but there is a relatively modern chapel build about 1900. It is built of local sandstone and has a head of Saint Finbarr inset above the richly carved doorway.

Kanturk

A market town set astride the Dalua and Allow Rivers - Spencer mentions them in his 'Faerie Queene'. Just outside the town is the huge shell of a fortified house, Kanturk Castle or MacDonagh's Court, i.e. MacDonagh MacCarthy, the local Irish chief. The story is that when the English Privy Council heard of the elaborate structure, they decided 'it was much too large for a subject' and had the work stopped. MacCarthy, in a rage, scattered the blue glass tiles which were to roof it. So there it stands, almost five centuries later still unfinished, but firm. It is now the property of An Taisce, the National Trust for Ireland.

Kildorrery

Kildorrery is a village on the Mitchelstown to Mallow road. It is most associated with the novelist Elizabeth Bowen, who lived at Bowen's Court in nearby Farahy village, and is buried in Farahy graveyard. About 2.5 miles NE, on the North side of the Funcheonin Aghacross are Saint Molga's Well and Church. Near the village of Kildorrery is Ballyhoura Mountain Park, a natural park of woodland, rugged mountain, grouse moors and peat bog, with its wild plants and berries, covering an area of approximately 10,000 hectares. There are marked walks and nature trails, and the park facilitates bird watching, orienteering, or simply wandering freely! It's signposted off the R512 from Kildorrery.

Killavullen

The house on the cliff overlooking the bridge here is Ballymacoy House, one-time resident of the Hennessey family of Hennesey Cognac fame. Killavullen caves are located under the house. Some interesting rock carvings can be seen by the cave entrance near the river. A mile from Killavullen is the birthplace of Nano Nagle, foundress of the Presentation Order of nuns.

Kinsale

For centuries, Kinsale has been a haven from the sea for travelers and traders alike. Their influence has made Kinsale one of the most cosmopolitan and charming parts in Ireland. But where Britons, Spaniards and Irish once fought, yachts now disgorge their sailors to sample 'fruits de la mer' in the old world atmosphere of Ireland's Gourmet Capital. Sample the history of the 'Wild Geese' in Ireland's only international Wine Museum in Desmond Castle and the history and crafts of Kinsale in the historic courthouse. (Kinsale - meaning Tide Head).

Liscarroll

Liscarroll is dominated by its 13th century Norman Castle, which is a spectacular building in size (it is the third largest of its kind in Ireland) and in being almost intact. Covering an area of about 0.6 acres, it has circular towers at the corners and a fine gatehouse, and its walls in places reach 40 feet above the village. In 1641 English forces held out in the castle for almost two weeks against the repeated attacks of an Irish army of 7,000 foot soldiers and 500 cavalry backed up by artillery before surrendering. The delay allowed Lord Inchiquin to assemble an army sufficient to attack and defeat the Irish and the castle was back in English hands within another week.

Macroom

Macroom is a busy market town in the valley of the Sullane River. The Gateway, which is all that remains of Macroom Castle is interesting, and in fact, the town was once owned by Admiral Sir William Penn, whose son founded Pennsylvania. There is a small museum with a collection of mainly folk material. Three miles west of Macroom, to the left of the main road, in a picturesque setting, Carrigaphooca Castle stands on a rock above the trees. The 'pooca' is a malicious spirit who haunted this fairy tale place.

Midleton

The origins of the historic town of Midleton go back to 1180 AD when the Cistercian monks established a monastery here on the banks of the Owenacurra River. The location of Midleton on rich agricultural land resulted in the development of related industrial activity - the distilling of Irish whiskey. Now a major visitor center in the town, it traces the history of Irish whiskey back to 1825 when the Murphy family first opened their distillery. Midleton is also a busy shopping center with a great variety of shops and the diversion of heavy traffic away from the town center some years ago has added greatly to the ambience of the town.

Mitchelstown

Mitchelstown, just 30 miles from Cork City, is set at the foothills of the Galtee Mountains, in the beautiful countryside of Ireland's Blackwater Valley. The town's name derives from Saint Michael, the patron saint of the Condon Family, who lived hereabouts in medieval times. It is an important example of a planned town and was laid out primarily by the 1st and 3rd Earls of Kingston in the late eighteenth and early nineteenth centuries. Their family, the King family, had acquired the town through the marriage of Sir John King, 1st Baron Kingston, to the heir of the Earl of Desmond's estates.

Monkstown

Situated about half a mile from Dun Laoghaire on the main road to Dublin, Monkstown derives from the Cistercian Monks who arrived in the twelfth century and built Monkstown Castle, which can still be viewed today. In the center of the village is Monkstown church, built in a unique Moorish Gothic Style, the Church was claimed by John Betjeman as his favorite Victorian church and is well worth a visit. Arching away from the church is the very attractive Monkstown crescent, with charming Edwardian villas on one side and with gourmet restaurants, fashion boutiques and vintage wines. For the thirsty traveler, Goggins Pub beckons. The Lambert Puppet Theatre is situated in Clifton Terrace.

Newmarket

From the tourist point of view, Newmarket town and the surrounding countryside of Duhallow is best known for its rich traditional music and dance. The Irish refer to the tradition and area as 'Sliabh Lucahra' or Rushy Mountain. Weekly or twice weekly traditional set dancing or music sessions are held locally all year round. Sarah Curran, the sweetheart of Robert Emmett's [The historic Irish rebel leader] is buried here in the Church of Ireland. Emmett himself was hanged, drawn and quartered in Dublin after the failed Rising of 1803. This area was originally McAuliffe clanland, but in 1615 it passed into the hands of the Aldworth family from Berkshire. Nearby the Island Wood is mapped for orienteering, with picnic tables and walking routes.

Rosscarbery

Rosscarbery is a small historic town set in picturesque surroundings overlooking a sandy inlet of the rugged West Cork coastline. The town grew up around a monastery, which was established by Saint Fachtna in the latter half of the sixth century. It is now a peaceful place with an attractive square, which is busy in summer when crowds flock to nearby beaches such as Owenahincha and The Warren. There are also water-based activities in the lagoon below the village. For the historian there are many places to visit such as Castlefreke, Rathbarry, Coppingers Court, etc.

Whitegate

Whitegate is a small attractive village located on the eastern shores of Cork Harbor. Nearby is the holiday village of Trabolgan with its subtropical swimming paradise. This was the ancestral home of the Roche family. There are panoramic views of Cork Harbor from Fort Carlisle, which towers over the village of Whitegate. An alternative scenic route to Whitegate is by East Ferry Coast Road.

Youghal

Youghal, where the past meets the present at the mouth of the River Blackwater, is an historic walled port and a modern seaside resort. Youghal Visitor Center offers a unique starting point from which to explore the exciting history of the town. Guided walking tours direct the visitor through the most notable areas. Following in the footsteps of Sir Walter Raleigh, Edmund Spenser and Sir Richard Boyle, the visitor is taken through the medieval streets. Spanned by the 18th century clock tower, these have Victorian shop fronts standing shoulder to shoulder with 13th century and 16th century dwellings. (Youghal - meaning Yew).