Overview

Located in the Loire Valley region, just 2 hours by train from Paris, Saumur is a city known for its iconic castle overlooking the city and the river. It is also known for being one of the main locations of horseback riding in France. The city hosts numerous equestrian events throughout the year and opportunities to meet the famous horsemen of the Cadre Noire, so called because the officers wear a complete black uniform. The old town of Saumur boasts lively streets and beautiful tuf facades. The region is also famous for its wine and vineyards. It is full of many troglodyte cellars dug in tufa and chalk. One of the best ways to uncover them is to visit a winery where you’ll have the opportunity to meet the producers who make the famous Saumur sparkling white wines, but also still red and white wines.

Things to see and do

The most emblematic building of the city, the Chateau of Saumur, is the former residence of the Dukes of Anjou. It is the last example of a princely palace built by the Valois Dynasty. The castle was originally a defence fortress in the 13th century with conical towers, it was then converted to a leisure castle in the 14th century, nicknamed the “Castle of Love” with windows decorated with elaborate carved balustrades. Then home of Saumur governors under Louis XIV and Louis XV, the castle was transformed into a prison under Napoleon I before becoming a weapons deposit place under the Restoration. Classified historical monument since 1862, today, it houses the municipal museum. The museum is divided into two sections: The Decorative Arts and the Horse section. The castle terraces boast fabulous panoramic views over the city and the Loire River.

The Museum of Decorative Arts houses a substantial collection of art from the Middle ages and the Renaissance such as wood carvings and alabaster, tapestries, furniture, paintings, liturgical ornaments, ceramics, etc. The Horse Museum uncovers the history of the horse riding industry through the ages and the world. The museum offers a collection of saddles, stirrups, spurs and other types of harnesses used all over the world. If you visit in July or August you can experience a 30-minute equestrian show mixing dance and mimes, which takes place three times a day in the castle gardens.

Enjoy a stroll through Saumur Old Town and discover the heritage of the city on foot. Much of the area is a pedestrian zone making it easy to walk the streets and along the Loire River, the longest and most famous French river, nicknamed the Royal River. As you wander the old town you will come across Saint-Jean street and its shops that lead to Saint Peter’s Square. This square offers an important historical past with beautiful traditional houses with half-timbered facades of the 15th and 16th centuries adjoining 18th century houses with wrought iron balconies. Also a highlight of the square is the St. Peter’s Church from the 12th century, which mixes Romanesque and Gothic styles. Also worth noting in the old town is the City Hall located on the Republic square, and the Notre-Dame des Ardilliers Church, with beautiful classical architecture of Italian inspiration, it was one of the most popular pilgrimage sanctuaries in France back in the 16th and 17th centuries. Another church to note is the Notre-Dame de Nantilly Church located about a 5 minute walk from the city center. This is the oldest church in the city called the “Mother Church,” dating from the early 12th century. During the summer months, the church displays beautiful tapestries, including the life of the Virgin Mary. The church is distinguished by an elegant oratory of the late 15th century and a fabulous Romanesque nave of the 12th century Gothic, covered with a barrel vault.

Take a tour of the offard Island, accessible by the Loire bridge. The island provides fabulous views of Saumur and is home to the House of the queen of Sicily that dates back to the 15th century. The island is a perfect spot to take in some nature right by the city.

The Mushroom Museum is located at 10 minutes’ drive west of Saumur and allows both older and younger to discover the world of mushrooms, whether wild or cultivated. The museum is housed in mysterious troglodyte cellars. The playful and informative tour along the underground galleries will allow you to discover more than 500 wild varieties, making it the largest exhibition on this theme in Europe.

Equestrian Capital

Saumur is known as the French equestrian capital being the birthplace of the famous “Cadre Noir,” a group of teachers who provide classical riding instructions to the officer cadet of the National School of Horse Riding. They are high level experts who represent the school at national and international competitions. They contribute to the influence of French riding on the worldwide scale.

Situated just 10-minutes from the city center of Saumur is the “Cadre Noir” National School of riding. A visit to the school offers the opportunity to explore the history of the sport. There are a few options to choose from when visiting the school such as the classic visit to observe live training of the great masters of riding or the Cadre Noir investigation, great for families with children. A visit to the school also welcomes a public presentation or a “Cadre Noir” Gala. Reservations are made at the National School of Horse Riding or at the Tourist Office.

Another way to discover the equestrian history is a visit to the Cavalry Museum located in the center of the city in the old restored stables of the “Cadre Noir.” The museum outlines the history of French cavalry from the 15th century under Charles VII to today’s tanks.

Wine, Vineyards and Troglodyte Cellars

Explore the wine vineyards and fascinating troglodyte cellars of the region. Saumur is known mostly for its sparkling wines, mainly made from the Chenin grape variety. The region also produces white and red wines. Most of the wineries making the wine are in the suburb of St-Hilaire-St-Florent and you will need either a car or a taxi to get there. Discover the excellent selection of wineries and be welcomed by local winemakers to show you their wineries, cellars, and help you taste their fabulous wines.

Bouvet Ladubay Winery: Located just 5 minutes by car from Saumur city center, the Bouvet Ladubay Winery has been around since 1851. The long underground cellars hide a fascinating sunken cathedral. Discover the steps of their winemaking process and taste sparkling wines called Buts de Loire. Another option here is to ride a bike in the cellars equipped with a headlamp!

Chateau de Chaintres: Located at the heart of the famous wine appellation, just a 10 minute drive from Saumur, the “Saumur Champigny” offers certified organic wines. It has been around since 1675, created by the Oratorian Fathers, and became certified organic in 2013. A tour offers all the principles of organic wine making.

Fabien Duveau Winery: In the Champigny wine appellation, this historical family-owned winery offers fascinating 14th century troglodyte cellars. Fabien makes his wines in these caves that were first used as dwellings for the Saumurois. The caves offer the perfect chill and humidity levels for winemaking and storage, much better than human habitation.

Domaine de Rocheville Winery: Located in Parnay, a 20 minute drive from Saumur city center, this family-owned winery was created by Philippe Porche in the early 2000’s. They grow their vines in a sustainable and organic way aiming to fully reveal the true personality of their two varietals, Chanin Blanc and Cabernet Franc. All their wines follow the standards of Organic Farming and Vinification with the “Terra Vitis” label.

Vieux Pressoir Winery: Built in 1892 by the Albert family, this small winery located in Vauldenay, mainly produced white wines. In 1936, after the recognition of the Saumur appellation, it started producing red wine. The winery produces wines in the Pay Notre-Dame appellation, less prestigious than Saumur Champigny, but this allows them to obtain wines of good quality and excellent value for the money.

Abbey of Fontevraud

One of the must-sees in this part of the Loire Valley is the fabulous Romanesque collection of buildings around the UNESCO classified Abbey of Fontevraud. Just a 20-minute drive from Saumur, it’s the largest collection of medieval abbey buildings in Europe.

Fontevraud was founded in the early 12th century as both a monastery and a nunnery run by an abbess which was a pretty unusual arrangement. The 12th-century buildings originally housed the nuns and monks and also the sick, the lepers and prostitutes who had given up their profession. From 1804 to 1963 it was a prison, set up by Napoleon.

Today you can see the cloisters, the chapter house with its 16th-century murals, and the huge refectory which served as the dining room. There is an excellent art program, so walk through the various buildings to see paintings both old and new, videos and sculpture. You can also walk past the kitchen garden which is growing different and old varieties of fruit and vegetables.